this past couple of years have seen several events and dinners
celebrating the pioneers of Santa Barbara wine country. They honor
many of the usual suspects, like Richard Sanford, Ken Brown and Jim
Clendenen, but increasingly they have included winemaker Rick
Longoria, who decidedly belongs in that august group, given his
almost 40 years in the business here. I have followed Mr. Longoria
since his early days back at J. Carey Cellars in the 1980s. He soon
moved on to the much larger Gainey Vineyard, where he elevated the
quality of the wines and took them to the next level. By 1997, he was
ready to step down as a winemaker for hire and devote full time to
his (and wife Diana’s) Longoria label. They were among the first to
establish a tasting room in Los Olivos and were pioneers in
establishing what’s become affectionately known as the Lompoc Wine
Ghetto, where dozens of winery production facilities are now
established. In 2014, they moved to a freestanding building just west
of the wine ghetto, where they are happily ensconced today.
Mr. Longoria is meticulous about his grape farming as well as winery
protocols at harvest and beyond. A typical production volume of a
bottling may be only a couple hundred cases. Lots of folks may claim
that their wines are handcrafted, but that truly is the case at
Longoria. The 2015 vintage was particularly good, but don’t discount
the broad experience and skill of the winemaker.
ź Longoria Chardonnay, Santa Rita Hills, Cuvee Diana 2015 ($45):
Caramel, butterscotch and buttercream on the nose, bolstered by apple
and cinnamon. On the palate, green apple and a dreamy creaminess are
informed by a sense of freshness and vitality. Very expressive on
midpalate with lemon chiffon and lemon oil to round out the edges
that are a prelude to the tingly and firm acidity that makes for a
crisp finish. Only 158 cases produced.
ź Longoria Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills, Lovely Rita 2015 ($35):
Immediate sensory gratification comes from the lovely and
sophisticated nose of red cherry and cranberry plus a bit of cola and
wood spice in the background. These lifted aromatics lead to red
currant and plum on the palate with highlights of brewed black tea,
sage and other savory spices. The grapes are primarily from
Longoria’s very cool-climate Fe Ciega Vineyard with only a small
portion of the wine aged in new oak so as not to hide the beautiful
fruit flavors. A tug of tannins show some grit and a good modicum of
acidity gives the proceedings an assist on the finish. For an entry-
level Santa Rita Hills pinot noir, this is an incredible bargain that
is drinking very well right now.
ź Longoria Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills, Sanford and Benedict
Vineyard 2015 ($50): Very aromatic on the nose with black fruit and
barrel spices. Black plum and black cherry on the palate plus black
currant with baking spices like nutmeg, cinnamon and vanilla. This is
a big and boisterous wine that has the concentration, structure and
tannins to easily evolve for 10 years. With time in the glass, it
expands on midpalate to reveal more fruit and spices plus deeper
complexity and a huge textural component. A classic interpretation of
a classic vineyard. Only 89 cases available.
ź Longoria Blues Cuvee Red Blend, Santa Barbara County 2015 ($30):
Cranberry, red cherry, red currant and a slight herbaceousness on the
nose. On the palate, both red and dark berry fruit in the blend,
which is dominated by the cabernet franc component (merlot and syrah
are in the mix as well). Olive tapenade, eucalyptus, tar and cassis
flavors come into play as well. This vintage is one of the juicier
and fresher renditions of Blues Cuvee with no cabernet sauvignon in
the blend this year. Medium-bodied, but like all Longoria wines, well-
structured and balanced. The artsy label changes every other year;
2015 features an electric guitar from local photographer Jeremy Ball.
This is perhaps my favorite Longoria wine every year because it’s so
different than the other Burgundian and Spanish-style wines that he
makes. Plus, what’s not to like about cabernet franc?
